Lhotse Expedition

Lhotse, a peak 3 kms south of Mt. Everest, in fact a part of the Everest massif, separated by the South Col, is the 4th highest (8,516m) peak in the world. According to Tibetan language, Lhotse means ‘ South Peak’. Situated on the border,  between Tibet and the Khumbu region of Nepal the peak was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Frituz Luchsinger. Lhotse is well-known for its remarkable south face, the place that has been the site of failed attempts and some notable fatalities. Probably because of this and the extremely difficult climb, the peak is rarely attempted.

The Lhotse Expedition: Typically 48 days is required to complete the expedition, in which 39 days are set aside for climbing. The expedition starts with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, from where we trek all the way up to the Everest Base Camp (Mt Lhotse and Mt. Everest share the same base camp) beside the Khumbu glacier; enjoying the beautiful Sherpa villages, culture and their hospitality. Lhotse expedition not just shares the base camp with Everest expedition, but also the length up till the south col, on the way to Everest’s Camp 4. The climb from the base camp to camp I (at 6,400m) is via Khumbu Icefall, which is the most dangerous section of the climb due to the presence of large crevasses, deceptive uneven seracs and high objective danger of falling ice. Once past the Khumbu Icefall, although the route is technically demanding, it poses less objective danger. The first camp is located on top of the Khumbu Icefall. Camp II (at 6,752m) is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of the west ridge. The view of Lhotse from this place is simply marvelous. However, one needs to fight flat glaciers and crevasses before one can enjoy this view.  Camp III (7,100m) is located on a small ledge on the Lhotse wall. The climb from camp 2 to camp 3 is first across the glacier and then about 600m on the compact snow field. Camp IV (at 7,850m) located near the south col is the last camp. Camp 4 from camp 3 is through the two rock sections: the Yellow Bands and Geneva Spur, with the help of fixed ropes. From camp 4 the final push towards the summit is on a steep narrow gully along a mix of packed snow, ice and some rock. The surrounding view from the top is very much rewarding.

Amigo Treks and Expedition is dedicated to providing comprehensive service required for the successful climb. Full board (meal and accommodation), necessary transportation, experienced mountaineers, guide and crew members having the knowledge of wilderness medical training, permanent base camp, experienced expedition cooks and managers, solar electricity, internet facility, satellite phone, professional, reliable weather forecast service are just to mention a few. Accommodation during the trek will be arranged in the lodges and tents during the climb. The itinerary prepared by us also ensures the required acclimatization. The entire Lhotse Expedition package is available at a very competitive rate.

Late spring and autumn are the perfect time to plan this expedition. Moreover, we also request you to be ready for the possible obstructions like altitude sickness and unpredictable mountain weather. Nevertheless, we also make the best arrangements for other expeditions like the the Manaslu Expedition, the Makalu Expedition, Dhaulagiri Expedition and many more.